Ávila is the walled city of Castile: a complete ring of medieval walls around an old town of churches, convents and stone mansions, an hour and a half from Madrid by train. Most visitors come for the day, walk the walls and leave. Stay the night and you see the other Ávila: the walls lit after dark, quiet streets once the coaches have gone, and the light on the stone in the early morning. This guide helps you choose where to sleep, with parking, a weekend plan and the apartment we host near the cathedral.
Inside the walls or just outside
Inside the walls you are in the old town itself, with the cathedral, the squares and the convents at your door. The streets are quiet at night and full of character. The trade-off is the car: the walled town is a low-emission zone with traffic restrictions, many streets are pedestrian, and parking is scarce.
Just outside the walls you are a few minutes' walk from the gates, with easier parking and, from some streets, views of the walls themselves. The Basilica of San Vicente, one of Ávila's great Romanesque churches, stands just outside the walls on the east side.
For a first visit without a car, inside or right by the walls is ideal. If you are driving, park outside the gates and walk in.
Why stay the night
- The walls lit at night: after dark the walls and towers are floodlit, and the walk around them is one of the best moments of a visit.
- Quiet streets: once the day visitors leave, the old town is yours.
- Sunset and sunrise at the Cuatro Postes: a 16th-century monument of four columns around a cross, on the west side across the river Adaja, with the classic view of the whole walled city. It is open at any hour and free.
The walls, the cathedral and a weekend plan
The walls run for about two and a half kilometres around the old town, with nine gates and more than eighty towers. Long sections can be walked along the top; the opening times change with the season, so check them before you go. The old town of Ávila and its churches outside the walls have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.
The cathedral is built into the walls themselves: its apse forms one of the towers of the defences. Ávila is also the city of Saint Teresa, and her convents are part of every visit.
A simple 48-hour plan:
- Day one, afternoon: walk a section of the walls, then visit the cathedral.
- Day one, evening: watch the sunset from the Cuatro Postes, then dinner in the old town and a walk under the lit walls.
- Day two, morning: the Basilica of San Vicente and the convents of Saint Teresa.
- Day two, afternoon: a last walk through the old town and the squares, and something sweet for the road.
Food to try
- Chuletón de Ávila: a thick beef T-bone, grilled and shared.
- Judías del Barco: white beans from El Barco de Ávila, slow-cooked.
- Yemas de Santa Teresa: bite-sized sweets of egg yolk and sugar, sold in the city's pastry shops.
Driving and parking
From Madrid, Ávila is about 110 km by the A-6, then the AP-6 through the Guadarrama tunnels and the AP-51, which are toll roads. Trains from Madrid take about an hour and a half from Príncipe Pío and around two hours from Chamartín.
In town, the walled old town is a low-emission zone, with restrictions on vehicles without an environmental label during the day. Check the city's current rules before you drive in, park outside the walls, and walk. With luggage, stop as close as you are allowed, unload, then park.
Winter in Ávila
Ávila sits at about 1,130 metres, the highest provincial capital in Spain. Winters are cold, with frosty nights, and even spring and autumn evenings call for a coat. Choose a home with good heating, and pack warm whatever the season. Summer days are warm and the evenings pleasantly cool.
Our apartment: Adarya
Adarya is a two-bedroom apartment with a terrace, five minutes from the cathedral and the walls. It sleeps up to four, with a double bed in one bedroom and two singles in the other, and has an equipped kitchen with a washing machine, heating and ceiling fans, Wi-Fi and a high chair for little ones. Parking is on the street nearby.
One thing to know before you book: Adarya is on the fourth floor with no lift. The ground floor counts as the first, so it is three flights of stairs. If stairs are a problem, tell us before booking.
See Adarya and our other homes further afield, and pick your dates for the exact price. Spanish law requires every guest to be registered, so we ask for each guest's ID during online check-in: our guest registration guide explains why.
Frequently asked questions
Is Ávila worth an overnight stay?
Yes. Day visitors miss the walls lit at night, the quiet old town in the evening and the early light on the stone.
Can I park inside the walls?
The walled old town is a low-emission zone with traffic restrictions and very little parking. Park outside the gates and walk in; it takes a few minutes.
How do I get to Ávila from Madrid?
By train, about an hour and a half from Madrid Príncipe Pío, or about two hours from Chamartín. By car, about 110 km on toll roads through the Guadarrama.
Does Adarya have a lift?
No. Adarya is on the fourth floor without a lift, three flights of stairs up.
When is Ávila cold?
From late autumn to early spring, and nights can be cool even in summer. At about 1,130 metres, it is the highest provincial capital in Spain.
